I say ''single ingredient'' because salt is not normally counted as an ingredient, and great peanut butter contains just peanuts and salt. That's the way brands labeled ''natural'' or ''organic'' are, as well as peanut butter you grind yourself in a health food store or at home. Let's not talk about peanut butter that contains sugar, hydrogenated fat or chemicals: it's not worthy of either the name or our attention.

Peanut butter's most common use -- as a mere partner in a pedestrian white bread and jelly sandwich -- is, to some of us, uninspired. (On whole wheat bread with ginger or lemon preserves, or with a bit of sriracha, now you're talking.) Yet cookies made with peanut butter seem to improve annually, especially as we learn to appreciate salty desserts. The peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwich cookie recipe here was inspired by a nearly savory PBJ dessert at Momofuku Ssam Bar a couple of years ago.

But otherwise, why is this wonderful food with so many admirers -- me among them -- so underused?

There have been some small steps in discovering the possibilities of peanut butter. For example, home cooks have learned that it is an easy-to-find substitute for tahini (sesame seed paste) in some dishes, which can result in quick meals like cold noodles with peanut butter sauce and hummus and baba ghanouj made with peanut butter.

And my own explorations of the last few decades affirm that peanut butter is a natural in curries, stir-fries and noodle dishes, like the shrimp recipe here.

Experimentation can yield good things. Last winter I began stirring peanut butter into oatmeal; weird, maybe, but good. I also put it in stewed lentils and vegetables (dal) with curry powder, which may not be traditional, but it felt as if it could be. This dish is a revelation: cook lentils or beans and whatever vegetables you like along with ginger and garlic, then simmer curry powder or a similar spice blend in some butter until golden, stir in a glob of peanut butter, and mix that into the dal. Wonderful.

Still, for an ingredient that is both powerful and lovable, I feel there must be more, though I'm not quite sure where to find it. When I appealed to readers of my blog, Bitten (nytimes.com/bitten), for ideas, I quickly got a small flood, and some of them were uncommon, intriguing and appealing.

They included smearing peanut butter on a wedge of raw white cabbage or a pork burger, roasting peanut-butter-stuffed jalapeños, and whipping up a simple satay-like sauce of peanut butter, soy sauce, orange marmalade and red pepper flakes. More ideas are on the blog; I've summarized some of what I think are the best.

And yet. And yet. Despite these explorations and suggestions, I long for something else: unrealistic as it may seem, the peanut butter main course. I recognize it's not the new roast chicken, but peanut butter has been so lightly regarded for so long that I think its best days may lie ahead.


Recipe: Grilled Pork Skewers with Peanut-Basil Sauce Time: 30 minutes

20 to 30 fresh basil leaves

1/2 cup peanut butter, preferably chunky

3/4 cup coconut milk

2 tablespoons soy sauce, more to taste

1 clove garlic, peeled

1 inchlong piece of ginger, peeled

1/2 teaspoon red chili flakes

Juice of 1 lime, plus lime wedges for garnish

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 pound boneless pork shoulder or loin.

1. In a blender, combine all ingredients except pork and process until you have a smooth paste. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed: mixture should be salty, spicy and hot. Set about 1/2 cup of marinade aside to use as dipping sauce.

2. Slice pork into 1-inch cubes and toss with rest of marinade until it is all well coated. Thread meat onto skewers, without crowding.

3. Heat a grill, grill pan or broiler until quite hot; cook pork until brown all over, turning once, about 5 to 8 minutes total. Serve with reserved dipping sauce and garnish with lime wedges.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings.


Recipe: PBJ Sandwich Cookies Time: 30 minutes, plus at least 2 hours' chilling

1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened, more for greasing baking sheets

1 cup sugar

3/4 cup peanut butter, chunky or smooth

1 egg

3 cups all-purpose flour, more for work surface

Pinch salt

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 tablespoon milk, or as needed

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 cup fruit jam or jelly.

1. Use an electric mixer to cream together the butter, sugar and peanut butter; add egg and beat until well blended.